Shopsmith 10E 10ER Replacement Switch. Add a little safety to your Shopsmith by covering the exposed switch. Bright red color alows you to see it in the event of an emergency. Shopsmith, Inc. Customer Services 3931 Image Drive Dayton, Ohio 45414 Email — techsupport@shopsmith.com Where to Phone — Shopsmith maintains toll-free telephone numbers during normal business hours.
- We d need the serial number off the name plate to get a good guess but E/ER s were made from 47 to 53ish.-DPF. Shopsmith Model 10E: Date of Manufacturer: 1947: Serial Number: Purchased this Shopsmith from the original owner in 1998 at a Model 10E Magna Engineering San.
- This is a vintage Shopsmith model 10ER, serial number 37519. It is an older model of Shopsmith, not the one that has all the attachments. If you know these machines, you know what it is.
- The original Shopsmiths, the 10e and 10er, did and continue to do fine with only 1/2 hp motors. A headstock with a 3/4 hp motor should do anything you want it to on a Mark V. As long as your bearings in the motor are good, it should give you great service.
- Actually the model number itself tells me that; the 10E was the predecessor of several other models. The letter 'E' stands for 'experimental' and it was followed by the 10ER ('experimental revised'), and later by the Mark II and Mark V.
- In addition to the basic 5 in 1 machine (Table Saw, Drill Press, Lathe, Sander and Horizontal Borer) this machine came with a Shopsmith Jigsaw, with Jigsaw Blade Insert for table, a Jointer Shaper fence assembly with instructions still in the original box, Jacobs Drill Chuck & Key, Work Arbor for grinding and buffing, and a Mortice Attachment.
Description
Number of Pages: 19
This is a reproduction, not a photocopy, of an original Shopsmith Owner’s Guide Model No. 10-ER. This manual includes information on this machine and the basic attachments that came with the it. It includes basic set up and basic operating instructions for the table saw, lathe, drill press, and other multiple functions the machine can do. It also contains explosive view diagrams of the parts.
Overview:
I have collected this information for many years and have found the information they contain to be priceless in using and setting up the machines properly. I believe this manual will be a valuable resource of knowledge that will provide a lot of helpful information that is often hard to find. My manuals are not photocopies. I maintain a high standard of quality in my reproductions. Most of the manuals I reproduce look better than their originals. I have professionally digitally edited every page, and removed stains, wrinkles and handwriting. All of the manuals are printed on thick white paper to withstand shop wear and tear.
| What is a Shopsmith? | Differences in Shopsmith Models | Shopsmith Terminology | Shopsmith versus the Clones |
| Prices of Used Shopsmiths | Shopsmith Table Alignment | Motor Problems | Where is Shopsmith USA |
| Where is Shopsmith Canada | Bandsaw Troubles/Questions | Jointer Blades | Reducing Speed before Shutdown |
| Bearing Problems | Jointer Advice | Aux Table and Fence Alignment | Aftermarket Fence for 500 |
Additional FAQ information on other pages:
[Go to Top of Page]What is a Shopsmith?
Shopsmith Inc is the manufacturer of one of the finest 5-in-1home woodworking systems made in the USA today, the ShopsmithMark 5. Shopsmith ® is a registered trademark of Shopsmith, Inc.
The current Mark V is the model 510. It and the earlier model 500provide the following capabilities:
- Table Saw
- Drill Press
- Horizontal Boring Machine
- Lathe
- Disc Sander
It can be easily converted from one mode to another. Also Shopsmithsells a wide range of attachments to extend the features of the base machine(see below)
[Go to Top of Page]Differences in Shopsmith Models
There is a lot of difference between a Mark 5 and the 10E/10ER models.The 10E/10ER was NOT made by the company known as Shopsmith. The originalproducer of these units (Magna Corp.) is no longer around.
The currect company came into being in 1972 and has only produced theMark 5 series. They do not have parts for any other models with the exceptionsof very few.
The model Mark 5 or MKV 500 is the same unit produced today, with somemechanical changes inside the power head (headstock), as what was producedfrom the early 1950's on. There are other Mark models too. There was oncea Mark II and a Mark VII, again the current company does not have partsfor any other models with the exceptions of very few.
The Mark 5 Model 510 and the Mark 5 Model 500 both have the same powersupply and both do the same basic 5 functions. However, the model 510 hasa larger table system on it and things like the saw guard system and handlesare easier to operate. The model 500 has been discontinued because of the decline in demand for it.
[Go to Top of Page]Shopsmith Terminology
- SS
- abbreviation for Shopsmith sometimes followed by the model i.e. SS510
- Headstock
- the moveable portion of the SS that contains the motor. contains thequill and spindles for tool attachment. Easily identified by the speedcontrol knob.
- Quill
- the moveable spindle that comes out of the right side of the headstock.commonly used in drill press mode and fine adjustments for table sawingand disc sanding. adjustments are made with the quill lever below and tothe right of the speed adjust control. There is also a quill lock to preventthe quill from moving.
- Way Tubes
- the machined pipes that allow the headstock and sliding table to move leftand right.
- Sliding Table
- this is the most common work surface on the SS. it is used as a tablefor table sawing, disc sanding, and drill press along with most other operations.it has a miter gauge track on each side of the table insert.
- Table Insert
- Different table inserts are available with slots for saw blades, dado blades, molder heads, and the drum sander.
- Extension Table
- An extension table with tubes can be inserted into slots on either endof the SS to provide support for large workpieces. The Model 510 has a 'floating' extension table which is supported by the sliding table and maintains the same height.
- Miter Gauge
- Consists of a bar, which rides in one of the slots on the table, and a protractor head. The miter gauge is used to guide the woodpiece through theblade in cross- or miter cuts.
- Rip Fence
- A guide which attaches any of the tables which keeps the woodpiece alignedduring rip sawing and some other operations.
Shopsmith versus the Clones
TheMini Max machine is now being sold as EuroShop. I believe they have a fewtypes of combination machines. I have heard they are very nice. Much moreaccurate and easy to work with than the Shopsmith. I have sent for theinformation. I got the number out of Wood magazine. 800/203/0023 is thenumber. I too am looking for a multi machine because I am limited on space.Keep me posted. Thanks
I have owned a Total Shop clonefor about 10 years. I wouldn't say I've given it heavy use, but for mostof what I've wanted to do, it's worked fine. I already had a table sawwhen I got the Total Shop, so I have not used that feature much. When Ido, the unreliable alignment of the fence and the small table are the onlycomplaints. I've used it in all the other configurations with good success.
The main differences between the Shopsmith and theTotal Shop as I recall are that the Total Shop (TS) has cast iron tablesvs. aluminum, the TS is heavier than the Shopsmith and the TS has a largermotor. I'm not that familiar with Shopsmith. I expect for a combinationmachine it is fine. The fit and finish on my Total Shop were adequate ifnot perfect. No assembly or set up problems.
If I could have afforded it, I'd probably have gottena Shopsmith. But then, if I could have afforded it, I definitely wouldhave built a separate heated shop and filled it with individual high qualitytools, too. As it is, the TS fits nicely in the back of my garage. Besides,I'm more into hand tool work now, so it works OK as a supplement to that.
I don't have first hand experiencewith a genuine Shopsmith. The Taiwanese rip-off I bought 10 years ago isfairly crude. I thought I would save dollars, but the quality just isn'tthere. I paid a lot of money for something I was never happy with and Ihave regretted it ever since. It was false economy. If I had it to do overagain I would pay the extra bucks and try the real thing. I don't knowwhat I'd be getting, but I know what I've had. -Mike
Do not understand people's fascinationwith putting down one man's way of doing things. I have a friend that makesfurniture and other things out of wood with his SS. The reason he has theSS, is because of room constraints like most of the other people who ownone. No matter what you do, someone will put you down. They have been bashingR.Underhill and N. Abram for over three years now. If you buy this machine,you should've bought that one. If you have this you oughtta own this one.If you buy this tool you would be better buying this one. HOGWASH!!!! Justlike computers, I have this one, it's not good enough, you would have beenbetter off buying that one. Bull, they are all out dated before you getthem home and have them running. People buy what is convenient for themand what is financially probable. Typically, any American will always beable to do you one better.
SCMI makes a combo tool in their Mini-Max line. It'sa much nicer machine than the Shopsmith. There are a few others out theretoo. This is an important decision, so do your homework wisely. IMO, thetable saw is one of the most important machines in a shop. Whatever youget, make sure it has a good table saw and a good fence (or can be adaptedwith a good fence).
[Go to Top of Page]Prices of used Shopsmiths
ShopsmithMark V with many extras for sale. Accessories include jointer, bandsaw,router/shaper, dado system, and many blades and jigs. Asking $2000.
Shopsmith Model 510 Mark V
Like new... used only once in table saw mode. Includesstarter kit (castors, some bits, blades, etc.) Located in Greenville, SC$1000.00 (less than 50% of new cost)
For Sale 3 Year old ShopsmithMark V Special, Most of the attachments. Speed Increaser, Router, 5 Arbors,tool caddy, mobility option, and many more!
Making the shop smaller, child on the way. List $2500,$1600 takes it.
What should a 1988 model MarkV (510) with the basic equipment including chisels and an accessory standwith bandsaw and belt sander run? I may be able to get it for about $7-800.Is this good bad or what?
What are the going prices fora used Shopsmith MK V, model 510?
I got mine for $1,100. It came with the 4' jointer,band saw, scroll saw and lots of extra little accessories. I see them for$800 to $1,300 fairly often with some people trying to recoup the wholeshoot'n match up over $2,000. Most don't come with very many accessoriesso far as I have seen. That is here in upstate NY.
I paid $500 for a 510 about 4years ago - no accessories.
Shopsmith Mark V for sale: $750
Standard accessories and manuals.Extras include jointer and faceplate attachment for bowl turning. Motorinspected and tuned by Shopsmith 4 years ago. ~~ For Sale: Shopsmith MarkV Model 510 in EXCELLENT condition. Includes all standard accessories,safety equipment and original documentation. Plus...14' bandsaw, routershield and chucks (1/4' and 1/2'), extra saw blades and inserts,stack dado blade with arbor and more.
New...$2000+ Asking $1400
Shopsmith Mark V, all standardaccessories plus 4 inch jointer. $950. ~~ It has a band saw, lathe chisels,sanding disk, band saw. Take it all for $900
...what would be a fair pricefor a used Shopsmith based on its condition and/or age? For example:like-new, moderate-use, heavily-used, fixer-upper. Thanks in advancefor your valuable input.--
Also depends on what accessories you want (or must)purchase with the machine. One can often find accessories for sale withoutthe main machine, but seldom the reverse (my experience).
Older machines ('50s & 60s) can be found from $500to $800; the condition is subject to your own standards, but most of thesehave probably been heavily used. The later versions ('70s & '80s) generallygo for $1500 to >$2k, depending again on condition, features (model500 or 510), and accessories. Accessories on older machines don't affectthe price as much, unless all the accessories are newer than the machine.
SHOPSMITH MARK V MANY Access.UsedLittle. Pd $3000 Asking $1700/bo
SHOPSMITH Mark V, Model 510
5 basic woodworking functions in 1 compact system thatcovers only 12 sq. feet of floorspace.
Power system develops over 2 hp. with variable speed(700 - 5200 rpm)
Sawing: 10' table saw Sanding: 12' disc sanderdrilling: double column support ensures accurate drilling turning: woodlathe can turn large and small items boring: horizontal boring with greatprecision
manual, instruction booklet, fences, chucks, extracarbide saw blade and all accessories included.
bonus: router / shaper collar, shield also carbidebit. and set of turning knives / gouges for lathe.
locking wheels also included.
3 years old, seldom used.
sells for $3000 new, plus taxes.
Asking $1900; or best offer.
New Shopsmith Mark V with lathe,drill press, disc sander, table saw, and band saw. Included: dado blades,various saw blades (plywood, rip, etc). Table saw area will handle 4x8sheets of plywood easily.
Used 1 time. $3400.00 invested.
Price: $2700.
For sale: 5 year old Shopsmithmark V in good condition. comes with bandsaw and belt sander attachments.comes with extra blades and belts along with other accessories, includingdisk sander and panel cutter. moving to smaller place and don't have roomfor shop. asking $1500 for all.
I bought my old 10 ER in Decemberand have since seen a number of them for sale. More than 2 million arereported to be in use, so parts are often available from other used onesthat are being stripped for parts. I see them for sale in the $250 to $350range regularly.
[Go to Top of Page]Shopsmith Table Alignment
Being the finicky sort I check alignment before starting a new project.My Shopsmith is now about a year old, and my only problem has been thatthe nut holding the guide rail (nomenclature?), on the outfeed side ofthe table, only allows for about a 1/16th of an inch of adjustment to squarethe table (miter slot)with the saw blade and the table seems to want tocreep back to being slightly out of alignment.
Has this problem been solved by anyone or is it a non problem andsomething I am doing wrong?
If you have an answer to this question. Please send it toTom Almy for inclusion in this FAQ.Thank you!
[Go to Top of Page]Motor Problems
I have a 1954 Shopsmith good working order except for the motor.It seems to have a loss of power, gets up to speed ok but with anykind of drag at all it slows or stops. Ideas? Capacitor? Much obliged.
- Lars.
Go to your public library and get the book on Electric motors. Thisbook will show you everything you need to know.The average motor lasts20yrs,and there are a few small things that go bad on em,Make sure thatmotor is actually at fault and not something possibly jammed that its hookedup to..Start capacitors can be bought at Appliance Parts suppliers storein yellow pages...
[Go to Top of Page]Where is Shopsmith US?
Shopsmith Inc6530 Poe Ave
Dayton, OH 45414
1-800-762-7555 EST 9-5
Tech Help 1-800-543-7586 EST 9-7
Sales 1-800-722-3965 Fax
Where is Shopsmith in Canada?
We are the Canadian Dealers of Shopsmith.
ALL-IN-ONE WOOD TOOLS6905 Millcreek Dr. Unit #3
Mississauga, Ontario, Canada L5N 6A3
(905) 826-4720 phone
(905) 826-4780 fax
1-800-370-3834.
Bandsaw Troubles/Questions
I'm 'borrowing' (possibly permanently) a Mark V Shopsmithfrom my aunt, who inherited it from my grandfather/her father. I'm notsure when the last time it was used before I got it home late last year.
Anyhow, I've been using the bandsaw attachment a lot, and I'm havingdifficulties with it. To begin with, if I crank it up to the right tension(and run the saw without feeding it stock), the blade works itself forward(and will come off the wheels if I'm not careful.) I just replaced bothtires (partly because one of them broke) in hopes that it would fix theproblem, but no luck. If I set it to a lower tension, the problem goesaway. So: is there an easy fix to this tracking problem? (Or do I haveto ship it to Dayton?) Is it a bad idea to operate the saw with a lowertension?
I'm also having problems aligning the cooling blocks; it seems thatthe arm has enough side to side (and forward-back) give that each timethe arm changes height, the blocks need to be tweaked. Is there a fix forthis?
And one final question. I saw a reasonably priced bandsaw in the recentAMT catalog. Am I having these problems because I have an old and poorlycared for [Shopsmith] saw? Or are these problems 'just part of theterritory' of bandsaw ownership?
When a bandsaw tries to spitout the blade you've fed it, it is often a tracking problem. In a nut shell,this means that the center lines for the two wheels are not parallel. Everyband saw that I have ever seen has an adjustment screw or knob for settingtracking. If this does not work, there are several, though less commonfixes. I suggest you consult FWW articles or one of several books writtenby Mark Duginske which address tuning a band saw.
As for your other question, using a band saw with too little blade tensionwill make it difficult to cut along an intentional line. It will also makeit difficult, if not impossible, to have your cut straight and square tothe board's face.
[Go to Top of Page]Jointer Blades
My SS jointer is in need of new blades. SS wants about $35~$40 forthe set. Grizzley has a set for about $15.00... After reading the SS docs,they have designed their blades with a slight bevel to them so when thewedge is put in place the blade and wedge 'lock'. This is a safetyfeature so if the wedge becomes loose the blade won't come flying out!I'm all for safety... I just want to know if anyone has used other (nonSS) blades, and any recommendations you may have. (andy t. -> william_tudhope@we.xerox.com)
I'd like to put another twist on this question- does anyone know if carbide cutters are available for a Shopsmith jointer?Would such a thing be a waste of money? Thanks in advance.
Dan
If you have an answer to this question. Please send it toTom Almy for inclusion in this FAQ.Thank you!
[Go to Top of Page]Reducing Speed Before Shutdown
Shopsmith 10er Serial Numbers
I recently acquired a Shopsmith 510 and note that the manual states thatbefore shutting off the Shopsmith, the speed should always be reduced toslow speed. When performing repetitive tasks at higher speeds such as usingthe TS, this becomes annoying and I don't really understand why the speedhas to be reduced and then increased again for the next cut. Is there somesafety consideration involved here that I am missing?
The main thing is when you are finished working with the SS for theday, then reduce to the lowest speed. This allows the belt to be in a morerelaxed state and expands the life of it. The faster you run the SS thetighter the belt gets. I know I must remember to practice this myself.
Good luck Earl, Portland OR
I recall reading something like that too. I usually don't follow that advicethough. There are two reasons I can think of to do this: 1) The motor willget up to speed much quicker, reducing the startup current. This wouldbe somewhat better for the motor. 2) If you change from a tool that requireshigh speed to a tool that requires low speed, you won't have a low-speedtool spinning faster than recommended. - les
I think they don't want you to mount a saw blade and turn the thing on withthe speed set to max. Same for a disc sander. I just preset my speed beforeI mount a new tool on it. Saves time, and doesn't seem to hurt.
jmg
The main thing is when you are finished working with the SS for the day,then reduce to the lowest speed. This allows the belt to be in a more relaxedstate and expands the life of it. The faster you run the SS the tighterthe belt gets. I know I must remember to practice this myself.
I've noticed with my vintage (1954?) 500 hooked up to a 15 amp circuitthat starting at a low speed makes a big difference on the load on themotor. The lights dim for what seems like a long time if I start at a highspeed and the motor appears to be working much harder. With all that said,I don't know of any safety consideration starting at a high speed, butmore of a long term wear on the motor consideration.
It's a safety step to keep you from over powering one of the attachmentslike the band saw. At Saw speed it would throw the blade off.
I think the manual probably is referring to situations where you may bechanging functions, and thus you don't want to be starting something thatuses a slow speed at a fast speed. In your case, I do not believe thatthere is the slightest reason in the world to turn the speed down beforeturning off the machine. I think it is irresponsible of manual writersnot to think of stuff like this, but rather just make 'blanket'instructions. Will Self
In these litigious times, it would be irresponsible of the employers ofmanual writers not to have the text vetted by legal staff, so as to protectthe owners, directors, and top-level management from product liabilitylawsuits, or some other such thing. (Another disclaimer, I am none of thosekinds of people for Shopsmith. I am some of those kinds of people for otherorganizations, and concern over this kind of issue takes up some non-infinitesimalamount of my time and energy) Practically speaking, the people who judgeand jury such things know nothing about the cases they are presented with(curiously, an informed judge and jury must be disqualified), and the simplerthe situation can be rendered, the better. If the instructions read, forexample, 'Always run the speed down before shutting off the machine'instead of 'Generally, run the speed down before shutting off themachine, unless for the next time you intend to turn it on, you will runit at the same speed or higher', then *if* someone forgets and attemptsto run his bandsaw at max speed, and the blade gets thrown and causes somedamage, and said individual or his estate decides to sue, one has the strongerdefense that the individual did not follow instructions, rather than thatthe individual exercised poor judgement.
I think that starting up at a higher speed also draws more current. SSrecommends that you protect the motor with a 15 amp fuse or circuit breaker.If you start the machine at a high speed it will trip your circuit breakeror blow a 15 amp time delay fuse. I have my SS plugged into a 20 amp linebut have a 15 amp fused outlet to protect the motor.
[Go to Top of Page]Bearing Problems
I recently replaced the drive belton a 1950's Mark V, and in the process, I noticed the quill bearing wasnoisy. Since this is an old machine, it doesn't have the dual bearingsbut just the one. I drove the old bearing off and when I went to installthe new one, it slid on relatively easy - I didn't need to press it onbut it appeared to fit ok. My problem is that there appears to be a lotof play in the bearing. When it is all assembled, the main shaft has afew thousands of an inch play (in and out). I took the bearing back outand it seems the inner race moves a little too much with respect to therest of the bearing. I called SS and they are sending me a new bearingbut I fear the same thing is going to happen. It just seems that the qualityof the new bearing is very poor - the tolerances are very sloppy. The oldbearing, although noisy, had no play at all. The play is not with the bearingon the shaft but within the bearing itself - something I had a hard timeexplaining to customer service. Did anybody out there have any similarexperiences and what did you do about it? Any other comments or suggestions?
I recall reading about a kitthat can update the machine to use a double bearing. Like John, I havenoticed quite a bit of play in the bearing(s) of my quill.
I have injected oil into a sealed ball-bearingwith a small syringe. I slipped the needle between the seal and inner raceand injected about 0.5cc of oil. The idler on my rototiller runs much quieternow.
I replaced the quill bearing in my old SS during the time when the companywas not in existence. I used a standard, high quality ($$), machine bearing.I did have to use a punch to get the thing on the quill, but it ran severalyears until I had the current modification installed. I think the bearingmodification is worth it.
I went ahead and coughed up the money to buy the retrofit double bearingfrom SS. When they have it on sale it's something under $70.
[Go to Top of Page]Jointer Advice
I'm looking for some advice onthe jointer attachment for a SS Mark V. A co-worker sold his SS a whileback, but kept the jointer (in a homemade mount with its own motor). Henow wants to replace it with a larger one, and I'm considering buying hisold one (actually, my wife is considering letting me buy it :-). Anyway,if you own or have had experience with the jointer, I'd appreciate recommendations,horror stories, whatever. The owner wants $250 (includes 2 sets of steelknives and 1 carbide set, plus the motor/stand he's currently got it on).I haven't seen it yet so I don't know what kind of shape it's in, althoughthe owner says it's in excellent shape and I would tend to believe him.Thanks, Dwayne Trego dct@cbdes.cb.att.com P.S. I realize that this is a4' jointer and may have limited use on larger pieces of wood, butI think it will fit in with what I do nicely. I'm more concerned with accuracy,reliability, if it has any real pain-in-the-rear adjustments (over &above what a regular jointer has), etc. If my Mark V is any indication,it should do just fine, but you can't beat first-hand information...
I get by with my SS jointer. Several timesI have wanted a larger one, but it has served me well. I have it on itsown homemade stand with motor, and I strongly advise that, unless it'sthe ONLY add-a-tool that you have. Tell your co-worker that everybody onthe net said you should get it for $200 :-) Will Self
I have a SS jointer and have been very happy with it. Yes, the 4'jointer tends to be limiting. But, I have found it to be very accurate,although I've only used it for edge jointing boards for edge gluing. Ihave not bevel jointed or used it for rabbeting. I have had the knivessharpened a couple of times, so I have had two good experiences in reinstallingthem. I would suggest getting a Magna-set, otherwise the knife-settingwill be a 45 minute to an hour project. Hope this helps. Frank Hansche
I concur with Will. I think that the jointer has performed well for myneeds. However, I do agree that $200 is a more reasonable price.
Shopsmith 10er Serial Numbers
I purchased my Mark V along with the jointer and Bandsaw second hand, in Dec 1970, just before returning to New Zealand. The Mark V and BandSaw are still going strong as part of a now much larger work shop. Thejointer gave me 14 years or reliable service, before I replaced it witha Hitachi A1000. Check in and out feed tables with a straight edge forwear. make sure that the jointer spins at the recommended speed. you canrefer to'Power Tool Wood Working For Every One' By R. J. De ChristorforoPub Magma. Good luck and keep your hands away from the blades Regards TomWustenberg
[Go to Top of Page]Shopsmith 10er Serial Number Lookup
Aux Table and Fence Alignment
I was recently ripping some widelong pieces of oak using my old (1950~s) Mark V and was having great difficultygetting my fence aligned correctly. My setup is the original version withthe small table and single auxiliary table. I had the fence aligned okwhen it was on the table but when I had to put the fence on the aux table(or straddle both of them) I had a lot of problems. I tried to get theaux table aligned to the main table using a straight edge along the topand front of the rails where the fence clamps on but it wasn't easy. Myaux table simply bolts to the tubes assembly but I noticed the new modelshave nuts and washers to allow for better alignment of the table. So, Iremoved the bolts and inserted studs with nuts and washers on top and bottomof the table bracket so I could do the same. I was better able to alignthe aux table to the main table but the procedure is still kind of tough.Does anybody out there have any advice on what they have done for aux andfence alignment or do most people have the new 510 setup? Any help wouldbe greatly appreciated!!!
I have the old 500 setup. I have built a tablethat attaches between the main table and the aux table. The main tableis on the right and the aux table on the left. This makes for a table widthof about 4.5 feet. I can use the fence on my table, the original tablesor both. When I set the fence for a cut, I measure from a tooth on theblade to the fence (perpendicular to the cut). When I get my desired setting,I then get a new reference measurement from the fence to the edge of thefactory table or a miter slot. Then I adjust the front and back ends ofthe fence so it matches this reference measurement. It is time consuming,but is the only way I can get an accurate cut without spending the buckson the table upgrade or a better saw.
Note: The 3/8' bolts on the ends of the table go into holes in thesides of the original SS tables. The main table is then moved to the leftto engage the bolts (I don't use nuts to attach my table - makes it quickerto put on and take off). I did not include dimensions in this drawing,since I designed it before actually building it, and was too lazy to includedimensions later.
My fence is bowed inward in the middle such that if you put a straightedgefrom end-to-end along the fence, there would be about a 1/8' gap inthe middle. I have to keep a piece of flat hardwood bolted to the fenceall the time to get around this. Kevin Farlee
No problem with bowing. I have converted to 510 configuration, but hadmy 500 fence for about 30 years. The only problem I had with it was thatit would pop out of alignment occasionally and the 'other' endof the fence could be moved a little. John Gonser
[Go to Top of Page]Aftermarket Fence for 500
Is there an aftermarket fenceavailable for the model 500? I detest the stock fence. The table upgradereally isn't an option. The cost would make a significant dent in a realtable saw. How do you cope with setting the fence on the 500? CurrentlyI have to set the fence by measuring the distance between the fence anda tooth on the blade. Then without moving the tape measure or rule, I measureto the edge of the table or miter slot. Next I adjust the ends of the fenceto match this second measurement - I have to measure at least 6 times (thelast two are a double-check). It works, and sure beats a hand saw!
Les, your fence should align itself when youtighten the handle. It sounds like something is wrong there. Are the littlealignment-adjustment screws set correctly? Take a close look at the undersideof your fence to see if anything looks wrong. Once the alignment problemis fixed, I think the easiest way to set up for a cut is to have the quillcompletely backed off, set the fence for a small amount--eighth of an inch?--toomuch, and then adjust the quill for the final measurement. I never wassatisfied with my Shopsmith as a table saw. Now that I have a separatetable saw and use the Shopsmith for everything else, things go pretty well.Oh yes. Also, for easier operation, try lubricating the working parts inthe fence.
Good question, and while we are at it, is there an alternative to the fencefor the 510? I seem to be having trouble getting it to maintain alignmentonce I have it set. Also, any feedback on the fence for the bandsaw? Isit worth buying, or should I stick with clamping on a straight piece ofscrap for now. Susan
Hi Susan; Greetings from New Zealand. If the fence is still the same asthe one on my markV,it should lock at both ends of the table once the handscrew is tightened.. Sometimes the locking tab on the far side of the tablewould not engage properly& the fence would be out of alignment. Arethe locking screws that hold the'T' piece to the fence tight?there are 2 set screws on the face of the fence T piece guide. These areset using the hex key. This should have to be done only once. If the newband saws are the same as my late 50s- 60 era Magna band saw, there aretwo slots normal to one another in the face of the table. these take the miterguide. I prefer to use it on the bandsaw with the hold down removed. Itcan be used as aid to feeding the saw, or set parallel to the blade asa fence. used with a bet of scrap wood to extend it, it is accurate, quicklyadjusted, & can be used as a depth gauge for production runs. I willhave to get some pictures of the new SS to compare them to my old friend.regards Tom
I am not aware of any after market fence for the Shopsmith. On the 510,which I understand has a better fence than the 500, there are two adjustmentscrews under the fence that are used for alignment. The first thing youneed to do is align the mitre slot with the blade. Then using the t-squarein the mitre slot with a tri-square, align the fence so that it is parallelwith the blade. I usually loosen both screws, align the fence, and thentighten one of the screws while the fence is still on the table. To reachthe second screw you must remove the fence from the table. I usually checkthe alignment of my fence at the beginning of each new project. My fenceseems to hold its alignment fairly well. The biggest problem with the fenceis that you can have any sort of measuring device installed because thetable moves in relation to the blade. Rudy
Once, about 6 months before the Shopsmith shop that I used to visit closed,I thought I saw 'New and Improved' fences, made by Shopsmithfor sale for the model 500. They looked very much like the fences thatcome with the 510. I didn't really look that closely, I could be mistaken.I would suggest that anyone interested in a better fence call the Shopsmithmail order number and ask if what I think I saw exists. It's really toobad that the Shopsmith store that I used to visit is gone. Are they allgone? I hate having to buy anything from mail-order without physicallytouching it and looking at it! I once saw an add for Shopsmith equipmentsold through a different retailer. Does anyone know of such a dealer inthe New England area? Steve
Yes, all of the factory stores except the one here in Dayton have closed.Prior to the 'big closing' last spring, about half of the storeswere sold to Woodcraft. Even the Dayton store, which is physically attachedto the factory, has been downsized. It only carries Shopsmith tools andaccessories now, where you used to be able to buy hardware, finishes, dowels,and so on. The home office was consolidated into the space vacated by therest of the factory showroom area. I'm not aware of any 3rd-party selling.I believe Shopsmith only sells direct from their one store, mail-order,and from trade and mall shows. -- Patrick Freeman
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If you have a better answer to any of these questions, please send it to the keeper of the FAQ, Tom Almyfor inclusion. Thank you!